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Nov 06, 2024

Trends from LuxePack Monaco

BW Confidential highlights innovations and trends from the LuxePack Monaco show, which took place from September 30 to October 2 The high levels of stock among brands and retailers, which mean lower

BW Confidential highlights innovations and trends from the LuxePack Monaco show, which took place from September 30 to October 2

The high levels of stock among brands and retailers, which mean lower orders for packaging suppliers, was a key talking point at the LuxePack Monaco show this year. The focus on destocking in the market is proving complex for packaging companies to manage, and a key question is when order levels will reconnect with the market reality. In addition, exhibitors expressed worries over China, especially its impact on the health of the skincare sector, while sustainability – and the investment needed to deliver it – remains a top concern.

In terms of sustainability, refills were omnipresent at the show. And although there are some question marks over consumer uptake of refills, most packagers confirmed that there is a strong demand for this format from major brands in the market. But despite increased regulations and the need to meet sustainable targets, packagers say that many brands are still reluctant to pay more for certain eco-friendly innovations.

In terms of the event, this year’s show welcomed 10,300 visitors, slightly down from last year’s figures (over 10,450). However, on the whole, exhibitors were pleased with the quality of the show and noted a strong attendance from international visitors. Show organizers say that around 52% of visitors came from outside France, with an increase from Germany, the UAE and India.

France-based packaging supplier Cosmogen has been banking on newness to fuel growth, launching some 30 products per year. Having already doubled its business in three years, the aim now is to double turnover again in the next five years, confirms CEO Priscille Allais. The company showcased a slew of new products inspired by cryotherapy, make-up artist techniques, holistic beauty and cosmetic surgery, with many featuring differentiated approaches to product application. Highlights included the Squeeze n Roll tube applicator featuring a patented chemical-based blue quartz as an alternative to real quartz; Fresh Bottle with stainless steel applicators in five different shapes; and the Needle Dropper, which is a fine needle-shaped dropper inspired by cosmetic surgery for targeted applications for fine lines or spots.

The company also showed new brush and sponge products and a new generation of hybrid applicators that use a soft micro-bristle technology suited for light textured make-up and skincare formulas. A key priority for the company is to reinforce its business in the US.

German glassmaker Heinz Glas presented a glass closure designed for high-end perfume and cosmetic products, joining its standard product portfolio. According to the company, the glass cap offers an elegant alternative for luxury products. It is available with decoration options, such as coatings, prints, metallization and customized designs.

Glass maker Stoelzle Glass Group showcased its Lumi Coat UV filter solution that claims to protect a bottle’s contents for a more sustainable and cleaner formula. Created via an exclusive partnership with NexDot, a laboratory specializing in industrial applications of quantum dots, the optically clear filter reduces the need for additives to stabilize and preserve the formula and protects from color changes or fragrance degradation. Meanwhile, the company continues to work on new lightweight glass products and showed its new refillable, lightweight recyclable fragrance line, Phoenix.

Fragrance diffusion company Scentys showed a refillable fragrance diffuser for the home and car featuring less plastic. The aim is to evolve towards non-plastic products and to continue developing bio-sourced and plant-based materials, says company President Pierre Loustric. In beauty, the company has recently collaborated with brands such as Diptyque, Byredo and Jo Malone. At its booth, the company also exhibited a scent diffusing artwork created in collaboration with Studio Marianne Guely (pictured).

Expanding on its Replay refill system, Silgan Dispensing presented a new on-the-go refill format for fragrance. Called the Replay Connector, the item aims to combine luxury with sustainability, and the system has been designed to make refilling easy, clean and spill free, says Sandy Gregory, Global Marketing Director for Fragrance at Silgan Dispensing Systems. The on-the-go Replay Connector fits fragrance bottles with screw necks and features Silgan’s Pirouette screw pump technology. It uses a push-down action to dispense the fragrance and automatically stops when full. Gregory says that in addition to the eco-conscious aspect of refills, the main motivator for purchase by consumers is the money-saving benefits these products offer.

With sustainability in mind, Aptar Beauty presented Future, a fully recyclable mono-material dispensing pump with an unlocking and locking ring, for full recyclability with PE or PET bottles. It also showed an all-plastic PCR version of its Color Code fragrance pump made with post-consumer recycled resin. Targeting more masstige markets, Color Code features the first plastic screw pump for fragrances, with a refillable option, available in a wide range of colors and decoration options.

Italian glassmaker Baralan showed its first Premium Re-Charge System, which features a glass refill that fits with airless and traditional dispensers and is suitable for skincare or make-up products. Described as recyclable and reuseable, the product is designed so that the glass refill can be easily replaced in the case. The company also showcased its recent 3D printing innovation for glass or plastic packaging. The process is described as a fast, flexible and cost-effective solution and offers a large scope for personalization for smaller series.

Italian glass supplier Bormioli Luigi presented its Reverre refillable jar, which it says has a number of sustainable qualities. It features a patented concept with a mono-material design and bio-sourced inner joint for airtight closure, thereby addressing customer demand for full recyclability of glass products, including the inner joint, says Cristina Scotti Events & Communication Specialist. It is also said to have a premium appeal. The jar is available in standard or made-to-measure versions, with different decoration options including internal lacquering, sputtering, engraving or hot-stamping.

The company also showed its latest creations featuring internal lacquering and sputtering techniques – the latter was used to create the mirror effect on Lancôme’s La Vie est Belle L’Extrait.

France-based packaging company Coverpla showcased new home fragrance products created in partnership with Spanish eco-design company Estal. Products include Estal’s Doble Alto packaging concept, which creates the appearance of a heavy base using less glass. It also showed the Magister, Philos and Pharma ranges, which include candle jars, bottles, diffusers and accessories in amber or 100% recycled wild glass available from stock. Estal’s wild glass is made from 100% PCR glass and is available in Wild Flint or Wild Dark glass. The aim is to inspire a new vision of an environmentally friendly approach to luxury glass products, notes Coverpla Export Sales Director Carole Pastorelli.

TNT Group highlighted its engineering expertise in metal packaging concepts for the beauty industry, and notably in skincare. Products on show included two award-winning applications: A rotary metallic applicator for Chanel N°1 Revitalizing Eye Serum, and a removable rollerball applicator for Westman Atelier, both patented concepts. It also showed products using recycled zamak and upcycled stone caps created from industry off-shoots. Thomas Diezinger CEO of TNT Group said the products show what can be done in terms of sustainability, while at the same time responding to the growing ‘quiet luxury’ trend.

Dispenser company Techniplast highlighted its expertise in the fast-growing refill dispensing market, a sector it has been serving for 25 years, notably for the Mugler brand. Techniplast presented new products for home-refilling, including the patented RT-Lift concept inspired by the technology used for the in-store refill station Mugler Sources. The product uses a press action to fill a 50ml bottle in 20 seconds, and automatically stops when the bottle is full. Personalizable and adaptable for all bottles with refill collars, it is also compatible with other formulas like serums and oils, says the company. Likewise, the RT-Pump has been designed as a travel format and has been used for the refillable travel version of Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire.

Packaging supplier Berlin Packaging showed the Luxe Refill, a glass jar with an inner PP cup refill, designed for skincare products, but also compatible with the Loose Powder accessory collection. In the fragrance category, the company showed the Heko line, which boasts an eco-friendly positioning with minimalist design and light glass, designed for the premium fragrance refill market.

In a bid to cater to the Gen Z consumer, the company presented its POCKII container, which features rounded edges giving it a contemporary look and with a smooth soft sensorial finish. The company also used the show to announce the rebrand of the company as Berlin Packaging, following the acquisition of Premi Industries in 2021.

Brazilian company Wheaton presented a line of sustainable bottles and new painting techniques aimed at offering more product differentiation. The Ecoglass Line is made with lightweight glass, reducing carbon emissions by 15%, and has a screwable cap for facilitating refills or recycling. The product is available in four sizes. Another highlight at the stand was a new decorative process called Crystal Effect Painting, which creates a unique effect to visually enhance glass packaging, and hot stamping ribbons using thermal ribbon to produce engravings with different effects.

French company SuperGa Beauty underscored its expertise in beauty manufacturing with new products created in collaboration with Cosmogen, Berlin Packaging and GBC Laboratories. The company also aims to anticipate future trends with innovations encompassing sustainability, product experience and an item’s shareability on social platforms such as TikTok, says Superga President Leslie Bréau-Meniger.

In the fragrance category, it has tapped into new ways of using fragrance with layering innovations in brush and roll-on formats, along with a new solid fragrance designed for the luxury market. The fragrances feature natural-origin formulas and are refillable and recyclable. In skincare, the latest launch is a dual anti-aging and moisturizing formula with encapsulated retinol, dubbed Serum Greencaps. The natural-based formula comes in a refillable double glass bottle, by Berlin Packaging.

Refills. Refills were a major feature of the show, due to the need to create more sustainable products.

Nomad fragrance. Small refillable fragrance spray formats, along with new ways of applying scent like brushes have been trending strongly, notably on the back of increased demand for new user experiences, more practical formats or shareability on social networks.

Fragrance mists. Riding on the body and hair mist trend, new spray formats are on the rise in the form of all-over body sprays with different intensities and applications as part of the wellbeing ritual. The mist format is also breathing new life into fine fragrance. Aptar’s EuroMist Heaven Spray pump for example, claims to offer a broad and continuous mist with three times longer spray duration.

Wellbeing & dermocosmetics. The demand for wellness and dermo-cosmetics products is driving demand for new applicators and dispensers, as well as materials targeting ‘clean’ products.

Gen Z & Gen Alpha. Manufacturers are looking to woo younger consumers with novel colors and more sensorial materials. Cosmogen for example launched the Candy Bar collection with soft rounded silicone applicators in bright colors inspired by jelly beans, while Berlin Packaging’s POCKII line boasts a modern look with its rounded edges and matte surface.

Took place: September 30 – October 2 at the Grimaldi Forum, Monaco

Exhibitors: +450

Visitors: 10,300

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